Island of Java
- Borobudur -

May 7 - 9

We were planning a very short expedition to the island of Java with the express interest in visiting Borobudur. This is the largest man made monument in the southern hemisphere It is an ancient Buddhist stupa and is a world heritage site. Just outside of Yogyakarta and to the north, Borobudur should have been a stunning and unique experience. Because of a fluid political situation in central Java, in particular a nonsecular backlash with regard to the Middle East War, we had decided to drop this leg of our trip and instead spend more of our time in Bali. However after checking with a number of different individuals a plan emerged. Mark and Quinn would slip into Java undetected by local extremists while Pamela and Griffin would bask in the glow of the Bali Sun. With only a small bag each, our two travelers were successful in a low key visit to a spiritually stunning site.

We restricted our trip to minimal exposure on the street of the very conservative area of a very Muslim country. The streets of Yogyakarta are very different than Bali, more urban and a bit more unsettling. When we arrived at the temple we checked into a very special hotel. On the grounds of the temple, the Taman Borobudur Guest House (Manohare) is a beautiful and peaceful place nestled at the foot of this spectacular site. We ate dinner in the outdoor restaurant after dark and were serenaded by crickets, the croaking of a reptile species and the melodious prayers broadcast from half a dozen Muslim Temples in the area. Very otherworldly.
Arising at 5:30, we set out for the opening of the temple at dawn. Climbing the 88 steep steps we found ourselves in the company of only 4 others as we witnessed the sunrise over the mountains. There are simply no adjectives adequate to describe the experience. Thick air, 30C, fog and mist hovering over the palms, surrounded by countless stupas filled with Buddhas and thousands of carvings designed to help the pilgrim reach enlightenment. We drank in the moment.

The museum on the grounds provided a good description of the rediscovery of the temple and its restoration. It also provided us refuge from the afternoon downpour (after all it is the Indonesian rainy season). It was very sad to see countless pieces of Borobudur still piled in the museum as they continue to restore the site. We braved the afternoon rain and the gauntlet of souvenir hawkers to head back to the top of the monument for a last hour alone with the Buddhas. The rain and mist were an interesting counterpoint to the morning heat and haze (photos). We were the last people to leave as they closed the gates behind us.
On our last morning in Java we arose again at dawn to witness the sunrise on the temple. The only problem was that there was a torrential downpour underway. Instead we hung at the hotel for a hearty breakfast including a cup of the rich local java. Now we have had a range of excellent cups of coffee, but that black sludge served up that morning may have been the tops. Quinn also sampled the local fare ("java on Java" as he put it). Finally the rains abated and we were able to venture to the Temple. Because of the weather there were few people and it allowed us to have another opportunity to explore this exquisite place. After walking around the carvings at the base long enough to decode many of the panels and the stories, we hired a local guide who gave us some special insights and told us about the history of the place and its restoration. The heavy air clung like wispy meringue to the tops of the trees in the valley, gradually parting to reveal the volcanoes that ring this magical place. What an opportunity, we feel privileged to have had the chance to visit.

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Page last updated on Saturday, July 26, 2003