The Bailey Expedition - Trek in Nepal

Trek Through the Annapurnas

We have decided to take a trek in the Himalayas, we are simply not sure where. The original plan was to fly to altitude and hike down. Today we spoke with a trekking expert who recommended that we hire a guide, start at lower altitude and hike into the mountains. It will cost less and because of the factors of safety, insight, and richness of the experience we are leaning towards a guide.

Well we decided to go with a guide (his name is Dinesh). Given the fluid political situation, the fact that we do not know the language, and the complexity of the trails, we think this is the best choice. We will leave tomorrow for 5 days and 4 nights hiking from Naya Pul to Ghandruk, to Tadapani, Ghorepani, Tatopani, and out to Beni. What our guide neglected to tell us until later was that this was going to be somewhere near 80 kilometers.

30/5. Today was our first day on the trail and it will be long remembered. We trekked up and down thousands of stone steps, hiked approximately 10 miles and gained over 1/2 a mile in altitude. We almost didn't make it. Our skipper Dinesh was a champ, he alternated carrying our packs, waited for our cramps to subside, and provided important Nepali cultural insights. It was the most challenging hiking we have ever done. Along the way we passed rice paddies, buffalo, amazing views of farmers, and children and farm animals. Countless donkeys, and endless evidence of their digestive prowess and that of their bovine brethren. We arrived at 6:00, ate and immediately collapsed to sleep until dawn. What have we got ourselves into?

31/5. Today was a much shorter day and almost sane. We climbed only a vertical 2100 feet over half a dozen miles and ended up in a picturesque town of Tadapani where we relaxed and hung out with the locals. Griffin went with Dinesh to visit the quarters of a woman who runs a house for the guides. She has cots, wine and food and a warm fire for stories and songs (see Quinn's photo on right). It is so fascinating to trek here in Nepal. You do not need to bring any food, there is an inn every hour or so on the trail. There are guest houses every 2 hours where for 2 dollars you can get a private room with a cot, blanket and (sometimes warm) shower. Therefore no need for stove, tent, sleeping bag, or really anything other than 2 changes of clothes, water purifier and bottles, and 20 pounds of camera gear (yes folks, Mark brought the laptop).

1/6. This morning we woke before dawn to an amazing view of Annapurna south, Machhapuchhre and the ridge line running between them (see photos on the left). It was so beautiful, yet the minute that the sun began to shine directly on the snow covered slopes, a haze began to rise and modestly drape them in a covering that rapidly obscured our perspective. Today's hike took us through a high Rhododendron forest with 30 foot rhodies, up and over a high mountain pass at over 3,000 meters. On the pass the heavy mist-draped silence was broken only by the calls of the birds and the occasional whisper of the wind. Being inside clouds as they gambol about the Himalayan passes is ethereal. Finally we descended steeply to the wonderful town of Ghorepani. It was here in the Snowland that we met and reveled with fellow travelers from New Zealand, Korea, England and others. The kids learned a new game: Carom, and we sat around telling tales and admiring the views.

Quinn and Mark woke at 4:00am to make a rapid 1,000 foot ascent to Poon Hill before dawn. At over 3,000 meters it affords what is considered one of the best views of the Himalayas, but only for those who are there before dawn. From Poon hill you can see for 360 degrees and can view Dhaulagiri (5th highest in the world), Annapurna, Nilgiri, Machhapuchre and many others. It is a euphoric view, especially after a one hour climb in the dark, before breakfast, at considerable altitude. Quinn and Mark took panoramic photographs and made it back before breakfast.

After an hour to pack and eat breakfast, these intrepid travelers were off on an arduous leg down to Tatapani. While we know that this would involve a vertical drop of over a mile, it proved even harder than we had imagined. 8 hours on the trail, thousands of steps of stone and switchbacks. Yet is was also a descent that took us through countless villages, and past hundreds of Nepali at work and at play in their yards and in their homes. These trails lead right past their front doors and therefore provide each of us with a chance for up close contact with each other. Quinn and Mark received permission from dozens of individuals to take their pictures and this collection of Nepalis can be seen as a separate picture page. What beautiful, tough, resilient, and resourceful individuals. The hike was physically exhausting and we barely staggered into Tatopani where we were thrilled to shower (with the best shower view we will ever have), eat and collapse.

It is our final day on the trail, and while we are sad that this journey has come to an end, we have been pushed to our physical limits. Griffin has hiked close to 80K in 5 days!! Quinn has hauled an adult sized pack the whole way unaided. Mark and Pamela will never walk upright again. This last day started with another amazing view and a walk through the Kali Gandaki river gorge; the deepest gorge in the world. The trek took us along the banks of the river and at times along an incredibly precipitous trail carved out of the gorge hundreds of meters in the air. It was breathtaking, but what hasn't been on this trek. On this trail we passed many individuals hauling goods up the gorge, dozens of donkey trains, clusters of Hindu Pilgrims, and numerous squads of training government soldiers. By the time we reached the end of the trail we had little left in our feet and legs. We took a short taxi ride in Beni, walked across one last swing bridge and found the four wheel drive van waiting for us. The 4 hour drive back to Pokhara was such a relief that we were almost numb to the fact that the driver seemed intent on sticking the needle to the top of the speedometer on a road with potholes that could swallow a yak whole (and still have room for dal bhaat) and within inches of people, animals, and giant vehicles heading the opposite direction with like-minded drivers. Back at the hotel we collapsed in the shower and are only writing this by a forging an unholy agreement with Morpheus to pay later.

This was the trek of a lifetime. We have learned more about Nepal and about ourselves than we could possibly have anticipated before we started. This is a country with thousand foot hillsides that contain hundreds of agricultural terraces. Buffalo, donkeys, chickens and ducks rule the pathways. Everything is ported in on someone or something's back. Electricity where it is present, is fickle and a luxury. Nepali children are largely on their own to walk to school, work, and take care of each other. The sight of young children taking care of even younger children strapped to their back was not uncommon. Yet most everyone smiled at us and returned our "namaste". They appeared to be thriving in this harsh environment. We only passed their living room windows for a brief moment, but we felt welcome and embraced. This was a brief yet powerful cultural learning experience for all involved. Please take a look at all of our pictures of this experience and Mum's musings. What a long strange trip its been. Its off to Cairo next.